Grit is grainy and annoying, as in: What’s that grit on the countertop? It’s grating, as in: Scrubbing the countertop makes me grit my teeth. It honors pluck: That girl’s got grit. Perhaps it could also pinpoint one speck of the breakfast mash and Southern side ground from white corn: grits.
But there is no scenario that calls for a single grit. Grits are served in stunning heaps. It takes grit to conquer a bowlful of grits. They’re meant to go big, or go in the leftover bin, where they congeal into a slab that can be stashed, sliced and sizzled — sometime.
Why not sidestep the middle meal and skip straight to the endgame? Cooked, cooled, cut and crisped, grits make a compact cushion for eggs, sausage or spicy shrimp. One that takes grit to resist.
Shrimp and Grits
Prep: 15 minutes
Cook: 20 minutes
Makes: 4 servings
2¼ c. milk
½ cup white grits
1 oz. grated white cheddar
4 Tbsp. unsalted butter
4 oz. ham steak, diced in ¼-inch cubes
1 tsp. cornstarch
Cajun spice mix (or paprika and cayenne)
1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on, rinsed and patted dry
½ cup fresh corn kernels
2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
½ c. dry white wine
½ c. chicken or shrimp broth
¼ c. snipped fresh chives
1. Prep: Line an 8-by-8-inch pan with parchment, leaving an overhang.
2. Whisk: In a large saucepan, heat milk and ¼teaspoon salt to a boil. Sprinkle in grits, whisking constantly. (Wear mitts: Grits can spatter). Reduce heat to medium, and whisk thick, about 10 minutes. Pull pan off heat; whisk in cheese. Scrape grits into prepared pan; set aside to cool, 10 minutes or more.
3. Crisp: Pull out parchment and slice slab into 4 squares; halve each, yielding 8 triangles. Set a nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add a little oil. Working in batches, crisp all triangles, about 1 minute per side. Drain on paper towels. Set two triangles in each of 4 shallow bowls.
4. Brown: Melt butter in a medium skillet set over medium heat. Tumble in ham, and let brown, about 5 minutes. With a slotted spoon, scoop out ham; toss with 1 teaspoon cornstarch and either ¾ teaspoon Cajun seasoning or ¼ teaspoon each salt, paprika and cayenne; set aside.
5. Simmer: Tumble shrimp, corn and garlic into the skillet, still over medium heat. Stir 1 minute. Pour in wine and broth and cook, stirring, until shrimp is curled and pink and corn turns tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Return seasoned ham to pan. Increase heat and cook 1 minute. Add more seasoning, if you like.
6. Serve: Spoon shrimp and sauce over grits. Scatter on chives.